Jazz Hall

The crazy-ass Bostonian Irish bouncer outside the bar on Chartres St. was hollering at passing tourists when we approached.  I guess “hawking” would be the actual term for it, really, but his base nature and style made it more like hollering.  Invitational hollering, to be exact.  “Come hear live music!  See the Green Fairy!  Come…

FQ Friday: Witches!

It goes without saying that I’m witchy every day.  But man, days like today?  I’m ALL THE WITCH Y’ALL. Today is Friday the 13th.  Auspicious and lucky for me, always, but even better this go ’round because we also get a full harvest moon to go with it.  Like a huge magical glowing cherry on…

FQ Friday: Stealing Back the Streets

Sometimes, in the French Quarter, the ghosts and the vampires and the voodoo queens and the many pasts and histories of this city will rise up and swirl and eddy around you like a small spiritual tropical storm…and that magical intensity can knock the air out of you and will absolutely solidify the fact that…

Playing Tourist

When you move to a city that you used to be your go-to Happy Vacation Place, occasionally playing tourist is an important thing to do. Think about it – once upon a time, you had this one place you were completely in love with, and would escape the day-to-day drudgery of your real life by…

Krewe Du Vieux, Ya-Hieux!!!!

It goes without saying, at this point, that this is my first Mardi Gras season in New Orleans.  As an adult, anyway.  Among my earliest memories of life (which include a fascination with beignets and that it was okay to make a mess and a toddler’s in-stroller view of the detritus in the French Quarter…

French Quarter Fridays: Backstage

So, I just spent the better part of my spare and stolen moments, for the last several days, glued to news, watching Hurricane Isaac steal upon the Gulf Coast and do his stormy thang.  Nothing drives me battier than watching storms like that roll up on my favored part of the United terrain, when I’m…

French Quarter Friday: It’s In the Details

One should never rush and hurry and zoom through the French Quarter.  (Unless, of course, one is running exceedingly late for work or somesuch.)  There is just too much to see, and that does not include just the Big Stuff like the St. Louis Cathedral or Jackson Square or the view of the river from…